New Zealand, land of natural contrasts: part three – the South Island’s wild west

In the second instalment of this three-part New Zealand travelogue, I recalled my journey from Picton to Milford Sound via Christchurch and Dunedin. In the third and final entry, I reflect on the epic conclusion to the 16-day tour.

Remarkable Queenstown

Queenstown is a small settlement in the South Island’s Otago region. Lying on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, it is encircled by mountains, including, to the south-east, The Remarkables – a sub-range of the Southern Alps that lives up to its name.

This spectacular setting has earned Queenstown the enviable tag of ‘adventure capital of the world‘. Thrill seekers come from far and wide to partake in jet boating, bungee jumping, white-water rafting, caving, and off-roading, among other adrenaline-surging activities. With so many options to choose from, my dad and I settled on a leisurely stroll around Queenstown Gardens.

On our way back to the hotel that evening, we absorbed the vibrant atmosphere of the compact town centre, with its trendy establishments populated largely by young international hipsters.

To our credit, on our second day in town, we took the Skyline gondola up to Bob’s Peak, where we twice careered around the Queenstown Luge track hundreds of metres above the lake.

Directly adjacent to the Skyline entrance and offering the ideal post-luge comedown is Kiwi Park Queenstown. This wildlife centre is home not only to Aotearoa’s national animal but to a variety of endemic birds and reptiles. While I have no recorded evidence of our encounter with the park’s kiwis – the nocturnal creatures reside in a darkened, photo-free enclosure – seeing them with our own eyes felt like a big tick off the New Zealand bucket list.

That afternoon, we reconvened with the tour group to board the iconic TSS Earnslaw, one of the world’s oldest fully functional coal-fired steamships, bound for Walter Peak High Country Farm.

Launched in 1912, the Earnslaw is a living relic that continues to operate on Lake Wakatipu in much the same way – and with the same Edwardian-era charm – as it did on its maiden voyage. Passengers can browse old photographs in the vessel’s own ‘mini museum’ – and even watch the crew at work in the engine room.

While there’s plenty to keep passengers entertained below deck, the spectacular views from above deck are not to be missed. Recalling our first cruise in New Zealand, navigating the sunny subtropical archipelago of the North Island’s Bay of Islands, I found it hard to believe that this final ferry ride, among snow-capped mountains and under imposing grey skies, was taking place in the same country – and just 12 days later.

Less than an hour after departing Queenstown, the vessel docked at Walter Peak High Country Farm. There, we feasted on a gourmet barbecue buffet at the Colonel’s Homestead before settling in for our evening’s entertainment: a sheep-shearing and farm dog demonstration. That this was the second sheep and dog show of our trip underlined just how important agriculture is to New Zealand’s national identity.

A FranzAlpine finale

Following two memorable days in what I now consider one of my favourite places in the world, the coach took us north towards Franz Josef, a small town named after a famous glacier. As usual, we made a few stops en route – the first of which, at Arrowtown, came just 20 minutes after our departure.

A former gold-mining town founded in 1862, Arrowtown is known for its remarkably well-preserved 19^th-century architecture. With its small streets lined with wooden, veranda-fronted buildings, it provides a window into New Zealand’s early colonial history – while also recalling the frontier towns in old Western films.

A short walk from Buckingham Street, Arrowtown’s main thoroughfare, is the Arrowtown Chinese Settlement. As a partial reconstruction of the village that Chinese miners lived in at the peak of New Zealand’s gold rush in the 1880s, the settlement’s humble appearance compared to Arrowtown highlights the contrast in fortunes between those doing the digging – and those reaping the rewards.

From Arrowtown, we passed through Cromwell, the ‘Fruit Bowl of New Zealand’. There, we made a brief stop at Mrs Jones’ Fruit Stall to sample some local produce – I plumped for a delectable golden kiwi – before continuing north along State Highway 6.

Around an hour later, we pulled into the Lake Hāwea Lookout to marvel at the views over the Hunter Range.

This section of State Highway 6, Haast Pass, is renowned for its spectacular scenery, and it wasn’t long before we paused our journey again – this time to visit Thunder Creek Falls. Just a five-minute return walk from the highway car park, the 28-metre cascade is one of many popular attractions on the route between Queenstown and Franz Josef.

Mere minutes down the road from the waterfall, at Pleasant Flat, we took in the sweeping views of the valley floor. The route then took us along the coast, where we paused to admire the dense swampland of Ship Creek and the dramatic Tasman Sea cliffs of Knights Point.

The varied landscape along State Highway 6 was a medley of fertile plains, lush vegetation, snow-dusted mountains, and thundering falls. It spoke of ecosystems flourishing and vital – and made our arrival at Franz Josef Glacier all the more sobering.

Comparing the scene before us with photographs from the 1950s revealed the significant recession the glacier had undergone in the intervening decades. Where the 2011 Christchurch earthquake attests to the power of nature over human endeavour, the steady retreat of this once-imposing ice wall shows the catastrophic impact of human endeavour on nature. Indeed, what had previously been a proud, blue-white mass was now – at least from our distant perspective – a meek, grey-white sliver, half-hidden under the valley fog.

In the almost seven years between our visit and the time of writing, Franz Josef Glacier has receded even further. We left the site feeling less impressed by the scale of the glacier than saddened by the knowledge of how climate change has stripped it of its former majesty.

On a lighter note, our accommodation that night, the Scenic Hotel Franz Josef Glacier, was stunning.

After checking in to the hotel with the tour group and dropping off our bags, my dad and I went for a late-evening stroll on the Terrace Walk, which leads right into the heart of the nearby woodland. This isn’t just any woodland, however; this is one of only three temperate rainforests on Earth that shares a valley with a glacier. (The other examples of this unusual coexistence are found in Argentina and, as it happens, just down the road from Franz Josef at Fox Glacier.)

As impressive as the forest is, our walk there was short-lived. If the murky twilight and strange animal sounds piercing the eerie silence weren’t enough to send us hightailing back towards the entrance, our minds were made up when we stumbled upon a clearing dotted with small, ritualistic-looking tipi-like structures. It was all a bit too Blair Witch for our liking. Visit this ecological rarity, by all means, but do so during the day – that’s my advice.

Back in the safety of our hotel, we slept off the effects of a long and busy day – and awoke the next morning to commence the last leg of our Aotearoa adventure.

First on the agenda was a brief stop at Hokitika, a west-coast town known for its driftwood-strewn beaches and choppy waters. From there, we turned inland, popping in to the quirky Otira Stagecoach Hotel – with its eccentric taxidermy displays and countless curios – and later pausing to take photos at the epic Otira Viaduct Lookout.

Finally, we reached the township of Arthur’s Pass, where we stepped off the coach and on to the TranzAlpine train to Christchurch.

Widely regarded as one of the most picturesque rail journeys in the world, the TranzAlpine route treats passengers to a montage of braided rivers, broad basins, and deep gorges – all framed by the ever-present pointed peaks.

I positioned myself in the open-air viewing carriage for much of the journey, inhaling copious diesel fumes in exchange for the best views – a decision my eyes were surely grateful for, even if my lungs didn’t entirely approve…

Although the two-hour-and-twenty-five-minute TranzAlpine crossing went by all too quickly, it proved a fitting grand finale to this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

In Christchurch that night, we shared a farewell dinner with the tour group. The next day, we began the long trip home via Singapore. For my dad and me, New Zealand had met – and maybe even exceeded – our lofty expectations. It’s the kind of place that bucket lists were made for, and I hope to return one day and relive my experiences there with my wife and future children.

For anyone considering visiting New Zealand, a coach tour with AAT Kings is an excellent option. It packs a huge variety of sights, locations, and experiences into a relatively short period – and takes the hassle out of trying to navigate the two islands independently. The staff are great, too. Our travel director, Gina, and driver, Mark, were friendly, funny, and informative, and took great care of us throughout the 16-day tour.