Anyone travelling to Taipei should have this former mining village high on their to-do list.
My wife and I visited Taiwan in August 2024 as part of a month-long East Asian adventure that began in South Korea and ended in Hong Kong. It was while searching online for things to see in and around Taipei that I came across Jiufen.
Nestled in the mountains around an hour and a half from the Taiwanese capital by bus, the former mining village was rumoured to have inspired the town and bathhouse in Spirited Away. Filmmaker Hayao Miyazaki himself has debunked these claims, but as a Studio Ghibli fan, I was keen to see for myself how the comparisons might have come about.
Jiufen by day
Arriving in the early afternoon, we stopped at a Family Mart to meet a friend who was also visiting for the day. Of all the convenience shops I’ve been to on my travels, this definitely offered the best views.
Having spent longer at the Family Mart than we’d expected, we headed for Jiufen Old Street. More of an alley than a street, this narrow thoroughfare is lined with shops, food stalls, restaurants, and teahouses. There’s a plethora of snacks and drinks to choose from, as well as all sorts of trinkets and souvenirs – many of which are Studio Ghibli themed.
Jiufen Old Street by day.
Although I found Jiufen Old Street somewhat reminiscent of the area where Chihiro’s parents scoff down an ill-fated meal in Spirited Away, the hordes of tourists meant it didn’t quite capture the eerie ambience of Miyazaki’s ghost town. Still, we had fun perusing the souvenir shops and sampling the local street food – without turning into pigs, I might add.
One of the many Chinese lanterns that line Jiufen’s streets.
By far the most famous landmark in Jiufen is A-Mei Teahouse, which forms part of an iconic terrace set against the backdrop of Keelung Mountain. Throughout the day, tourists gather to take photos from a viewing platform opposite the terrace.
A-Mei Teahouse with Keelung Mountain in the background.
Spirited Away by night
A-Mei Teahouse is beautiful at any time of day, but it really comes to life after sunset. For the best view, head to Skyline Teahouse directly opposite, where the balcony offers a crowd-free vista of the full terrace. Staff at Skyline are understandably keen to stop people gathering on the establishment’s stairway, so it’s worth sitting down for a drink or something to eat while taking in the atmosphere – just be prepared to pay for the view (it’s worth it).
A-Mei Teahouse after sunset, pictured from Skyline Teahouse opposite.
Once you’ve had your fill of A-Mei Teahouse, you may wish to catch the last bus back to Taipei. However, in our experience, it’s worth staying overnight. Once the day-trippers have headed back to the city and the shops have shut, the previously packed streets and alleyways are all-but empty. It’s at this point of the day – after dark but before the lanterns have been switched off (around 9 pm) – that Jiufen reveals its true, Ghibli-esque magic.
Nods to Spirited Away are everywhere in Jiufen. Spot the No-Face.
An empty Jiufen alley bathed in the red glow of Chinese lanterns.
The tourists may have left for the day, but some of the locals are still out and about.
Another benefit of spending the night in Jiufen is the chance to see the streets early in the day, before the tourists start arriving by the busload and the temperature soars. This is also the ideal time to hike Keelung Mountain or explore the surrounding area, with its temples and waterfalls.
Whether it bears any real resemblance to the setting of Spirited Away or the rumours were started as a – clearly very successful – marketing strategy, Jiufen is well worth a visit for anyone spending a few days in Taipei.
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