In part one of this two-part travelogue, I arrived in The Gambia, met some monkeys, and visited an authentic Gambian market. In part two, I cross the Gambia River by ferry to arrive in Senegal, where a stunning riverside resort and a first safari experience await.
Senegal
After a hurried breakfast on our final morning in The Gambia, we left the hotel for Banjul Ferry Terminal, where our driver left us in the safe hands of a guide.
While waiting for our ferry, we sat outside a café taking in the hustle and bustle of the port area. There, we marvelled at the grace and apparent ease with which local women balanced heavy goods on their heads, including full buckets of water without spilling a single drop – a skill that never ceases to amaze me.
Sunrise over the Gambia River.
Ferries here run on an ‘as-and-when’ basis, so we were lucky to wait just 45 minutes before boarding ours. The crossing from Banjul to Barra was agonisingly slow – apparently, there had been an issue with one of the vessel’s engines – but that gave us more time to enjoy the views of the Gambia River where it opens into the Atlantic Ocean.
The Banjul side of the river.
The Barra side of the river.
Around 90 minutes after departing Banjul, we reached Barra, where, having been told to keep a close eye on our possessions, we were escorted through a narrow, winding market. Any temptation to stop and browse the stalls was quelled at the sight of our guide disappearing into the crowd ahead of us. The message was clear: keep up or find your own way to Senegal. Fair enough, I thought.
Outside the market and with all our belongings still securely about our persons, we clambered into the back of a van bound for the border. With the unfamiliar sights of rural Gambia keeping us entertained, the drive went quickly, and we were soon in Senegal following a pain-free border crossing.
A riverside paradise
Our accommodation in Senegal was the Keur Saloum riverside resort in the small town of Toubakouta. We stayed in a traditional hut in a beautiful garden leading down to the shore of the Saloum River, where the views – day and night – were stunning.
Shortly after arriving at Keur Saloum, we left the resort in search of a pick-me-up, exhausted as we were from the early start and long journey.
Senegal’s favourite caffeinated beverage is café Touba, named after the major city of Touba – not to be confused with little Toubakouta – in central Senegal. It’s traditionally sold by street vendors, but given the searing heat and off-the-charts UV, we thought better of venturing far into town and instead stopped at Restaurant Chez Boum just outside the resort. From the shaded outdoor seating area, we ordered two cups of café Touba.
What arrived was, at first glance, nothing more than hot, black coffee. However, the aroma revealed it to be something far less run-of-the-mill. It had a complex flavour that had me guessing at the spices it contained. Did I detect cardamom? Nutmeg? Maybe ginger?
In fact, the only ingredient in café Touba – excluding the obvious coffee and water – is grains of Selim. The seeds of a tree native to Africa, grains of Selim – or Selim pepper – are dried, ground, and incorporated in the brewing process. They impart a smoky, spicy, peppery taste that we couldn’t get enough of. An afternoon cup of café Touba became a daily ritual for us during our short time in Senegal.
Café Touba at Restaurant Chez Boum, Toubakouta.
That evening, we sat down for dinner at the hotel restaurant, where the Saloum Delta at twilight provided a spectacular backdrop to our evening meal.
The Saloum Delta at twilight.
Fathala Wildlife Reserve, Senegal
The high point of our week in West Africa came on our second day in Senegal, with a visit to Fathala Wildlife Reserve, a short drive from Keur Saloum.
Comprising around 6,000 hectares of protected forest, Fathala allows visitors to experience the African wilderness in its original state. It’s home to an abundance of animals, some indigenous and others that have been relocated from further afield for conservation purposes.
Having arrived at the park and booked in for a guided game drive, we waited a short while before boarding a jeep and setting off into the bush. The driver skilfully navigated the off-road vehicle through narrow paths and over uneven terrain until we reached a large clearing. There, gathered around a large mahogany tree, were mammals of all kinds: zebras, buffalo, warthogs, antelope, and the reserve’s only rhinoceros.
The white rhino at Fathala Wildlife Reserve.
Whether these animals can truly be classed as ‘wild’ is debatable. Nevertheless, seeing them in their natural habitat – or at least something very close to it – certainly felt a lot more authentic than gawking out of a Nissan Micra in a rain-sodden English safari park.
We spent some time admiring the congregated wildlife before venturing further into the reserve. A few minutes later, the driver brought the jeep to a sudden halt, and the guide instructed us to exit the vehicle. We followed her deeper into the bush, the three of us treading slowly and as quietly as possible, until we saw, towering above the tree line, a giraffe staring back at us.
Despite having her calf nearby, this mother giraffe didn’t seem fazed by our presence. I’m no Doctor Dolittle, but I’d guess what she felt at that moment was something between mild curiosity and total ambivalence.
We, conversely, were spellbound. Even the guide looked genuinely excited. Apparently, this giraffe is elusive, and not every visitor to Fathala has the good fortune of encountering her.
Nevertheless, we were conscious of overstaying our welcome in this magnificent creature’s domain, so we hopped back into the jeep and returned to the entrance.
Saloum Delta boat tour
For our final full day in Senegal, we booked a boat tour along the Saloum River to the island village of Sipo, where we enjoyed a café Touba with our guide and met the village king.
Our meeting with His Majesty seemed more of a money-making exercise than anything else. With the guide informing us that a monetary offering was customary, we gave the king a £5 note in exchange for a blessing and were on our way.
The village visit, while a nice enough experience, felt like a side note to the main attraction: the river trip itself. On the boat ride between Keur Saloum and Sipo, we saw all manner of birdlife, from cormorants and kingfishers to egrets and ospreys. We even ventured through a tunnel of entangled branches to the heart of the mangrove forest.
The next day, we returned to The Gambia to catch a late flight home. Our week in West Africa had been filled with adventure, and I left with an urge to return one day and explore more of this vast and diverse continent.
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