In this contributed piece, Anthony Regan (Michael’s beer-loving dad) waxes lyrical about the ‘Jewel of the Irish Sea’. (Photography and editing by Michael Regan.)

Say hello to the fairies…
and the breweries

The Isle of Man is a 570-square-kilometre rock in the Irish Sea, lying almost dead centre to England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales.

A British Crown Dependency, it boasts its own parliament, legal system, language, tailless cats, and breweries – seven of them, to be precise. Home of the world-famous TT motorcycle event and the world’s largest working water wheel (alliteration always serves soundly in short sentences), the small island is easily traversed by an efficient network of buses, steam trains, and electric bone shakers.

Another way of travelling around the Isle of Man is by pushbike. This enables you to get to some of the more remote places of interest like one of the many glens (Silverdale in Ballasalla, for example) or Curraghs Wildlife Park.

Getting to the Isle of Man

One of the most challenging aspects of the Isle of Man is actually getting there. Your choice is between the ferry – which is subject to frequent delays due to storms or broken down vessels – and plane, which may or may not land depending on there being 1,000 metres of runway visibility and providing the sole air traffic controller doesn’t need a toilet break.

The ferry will take you to the heart of Douglas, the capital, while the airport is 15 kilometres away. The bus journey to Douglas passes Fairy Bridge, where an automated voice invites passengers to ‘say hello to the fairies’, leaving new arrivals perplexed and locals and frequent visitors completely unmoved.

Douglas is the governmental, cultural, economic, and commercial centre of the island and far bigger than any other locality. Yet it is not – or at least is no longer – particularly inspiring. A sweeping esplanade with a wide sandy beach and plenty of hotels once served the holidaying hordes of 1970s Britain, but this is now sadly half empty and underused, except during TT week. There are decent bars and restaurants, shops and cafes, an excellent national museum, and three breweries – but the real Manx-ness is to be found outside the capital.

A view of South Quay, central Douglas.

Douglas Head Lighthouse, overlooking the Irish Sea.

Traversing the Isle of Man by train

Take a Victorian steam train south to Castletown, home to Castle Rushen – one of the finest medieval examples of its kind in the British Isles. The top of this five-storey monolith offers superb views over the town and beyond, including of the neighbouring Old House of Keys – the former seat of parliament.

Castle Rushen as pictured from Castletown Harbour.

Looking down over Castletown from the ramparts of Castle Rushen.

While Castletown’s brewery sadly closed some years ago, visitors can indulge in an extensive range of hand-pulled ales and pub grub at The Sidings Inn.

Continue the train journey to Port Erin, with its dramatic cliffs and the most recent of the Manx craft breweries, Kerroo, or take a short bus ride to Cregneash, a living Victorian museum.

Back in Douglas, at the opposite end of town, the delightful Manx Electric Railway takes you to the north of the island, passing some breathtaking cliff scenery en route. Just remember to keep your arms well inside the open carriage!

The Manx Electric Railway’s 1894 No. 7 Tunnel Car at Derby Castle, Douglas.

Laxey is the first stop of note, with the Lady Isabella waterwheel a must-see and its accompanying disused silver, lead, and zinc mines now a trail that Julian Barratt followed in the movie Mindhorn.

The Great Laxey Wheel – also known as ‘Lady Isabella’.

Looking out over the village of Laxey from Lady Isabella.

Inside the Great Laxey Mines.

Laxey Beach is well worth a visit before a trip to Snaefell, the island’s tallest peak, on the M.E.R. branch line. On a clear day at the summit, you can see all Seven Kingdoms of England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland, the Isle of Man itself, the sea, and Heaven. In truth, you’ll be lucky to see your hand in front of your face as low-lying cloud often enshrouds the mountain.

Snaefell summit shrouded in heavy fog.

Continue on the train to Ramsey. The Isle of Man’s second-largest town, Ramsey is quaint and bustling – by Manx standards – but its only brewery, Odin, has relocated to Union Mills, near Douglas. However, Odin’s flagship pub, the Trafalgar Hotel, remains a fixture on Ramsey’s quayside. The town also has a splendid gin distillery, Fynodoree.

One for the road

Heading west from the capital requires a bus. Peel on the west coast is a lovely place – probably my favourite Manx town. The House of Manannan cultural centre is a must-visit before a stroll past the old castle and up Peel Hill to the Corrin’s Folly tower, returning along the coastal path. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at the Creek Inn before moving on.

The bus back to Douglas passes through St John’s – home of Tynwald Hill, the ancient meeting place of the Manx parliament. Dating back to 979, Tynwald was established a few decades after its (fellow Viking-founded) Icelandic counterpart, Alþingi, but is the oldest continually operating parliament in the world.

Before leaving for your UK return trip, ensure you offer patronage to one or more of the capital’s hostelries. The Albert (Chapel Row), Thirsty Pidgeon (Victoria Street), and Rover’s Return (Church Street) are all worthy of a visit, as is Douglas’s only brewpub, part of Noa Bakehouse directly opposite the ferry terminal.

However you do it, enjoy this enthralling island, its dramatic coastline, enchanting history and culture, and general hospitality. Oh, and if you get the chance, don’t forget to say hello to the fairies!